The hotels of Tulum are plentiful and very hit or miss. Truly some of the most unique and magical accommodations you will ever experience can be found here. These are some of my absolute favorites.

PAPAYA PLAYA

Like a trendy gated Paradise, Papaya Playa Project is your private world away from everything. Basics like uninterrupted AC and working plumbing are a big deal on the beach in Tulum no matter the price point, trust me! But in addition to those simple amenities you’ll find this sculptural jungle village’s charm and hip artisan decor intoxicating. The staff are informative, helpful, and responsive, in fact, PPP has its own app so you can find info and ask questions easily and receive a reply in seconds.

The fellow guests (an assortment of international demi-gods) will make you feel trendy just by association. PPP sits on one of the few locations along the coast in Tulum where there is a naturally private beach and the turquoise hues of Tulum’s white sand coastline at Papaya Playa are overlooked by several infinity pools over which pelicans soar diving for their supper in the surf. This haven claims its own (overpriced) boutique, delicious restaurant, coffee/juice shop, and a schedule of events that can keep all kinds busy. Papaya Playa is known for its music scene and beach club events so be sure to see what entertainment coincides with your stay.

In a nutshell: Papaya playa project somehow provides both an unforgettable escape and a thriving meeting place for the monied and eco-conscious jet set. The upside: This place is so dreamy you won’t want to leave! The downside: Truly can’t think of one.

IKAL

Ikal is an unforgettable true designer jungle hotel but stay at your own risk. Ikal is incredible, magical, and unlike anywhere else. Each private bungalow is painstakingly and artfully designed to be encompassed by a jungle garden for complete privacy. This concept has been so well executed that it truly feels ancient and natural, as though it grew from the jungle itself. Everywhere you turn a new sculpture, texture or detail will jump out to you. Elevated paths wind through your personal gated garden where an outside shower, deep soaking stone bath, and restroom are artfully tucked between a landscape of rich jungle foliage. In the evening glowing lights transform the bungalow garden into another world. If you’re staying in a bungalow with a tree house platform the stargazing is unforgettable.

WATCHING THE SUNRISE AND SUNSET, COUNTING SHOOTING STARS AND SOAKING IN THE SUN FROM MY PERSONAL TREEHOUSE BETWEEN DIPS IN MY PRIVATE GARDEN POOL WAS A HIGHLIGHT OF IKAL.

The bungalow room itself is luxuriously appointed, intricately decorated, and meticulously cleaned daily. The sculptural walls become towering ceilings and most have a sunroof that gives the appearance of an open sky above. My bungalow had a live tree that grew through the floor, formed part of the wall, and was sprouting a few leaves. The room is complete with private and fast wifi, floor length mirror, a mini fridge stocked with a plethora of local (must try!) well-priced goodies, and a beautifully hidden air conditioner that is incredibly fast and effective. There are plenty of places to plug and charge accessories. For as rustic as these beautifully designed jungle bungalows appear, they are equipped with every convenience.

Jungle hotel at Ikal Tulum — Jungle design at Ikal Tulum

The beach club is very, to use a Cali term... chill. Local musicians perform nightly, the energy is invigorating and relaxing at the same time if that’s possible. The food is incredible and always arrives in large portions so order to split! Ikal hosts a daily menu of yoga and spiritual events and draws a yogi-fit and eco-chic crowd along with some adventurous honeymooners. Ikal is conveniently proximate to the Tulum archeological site and from the beach, you can see the Mayan ruins majestically looking over the turquoise waves.

So this brings me to the “stay at your own risk” disclaimer. Ikal is a jungle hotel, and there is no real barrier between your accommodations and nature. Mosquitos cannot be kept out of the bungalows. Small creatures like lizards may also make their way inside the rooms, and larger creatures like the endangered Mexican angouti, occasional monkeys, and iguanas roam the garden spaces along with an assortment of birds and insects. We had our shoes chewed up and another pair stolen from in front of the door to our bungalow. I lost an earring between the cracks in the floorboards. We used organic mosquito wipes nightly to keep ourselves bite-free. You will have to leave the bungalow and go out into the garden to use the bathroom, which can be intimidating at night or in the rain. The staff won’t care or respond if you experience misfortune while staying there, in fact, they laughed when our items were snatched by jungle creatures. You’re on your own once they deposit you at your bungalow. I tried to schedule a massage but they were so unresponsive I finally just went to the beach club of another nearby hotel. If you are aggressive about getting yourself one at Ikal however, I hear they are good!

In a nutshell: Ikal is a one-of-a-kind, exquisite, and memorable stay that eclipses the essence of Tulum, its nature, history, and its more spiritual aspect. It looks and feels like something out of a movie or video game. Every structure is artfully formed and the details are enchanting. For those with an adventurous streak, this place will be unforgettable and I would count it as a must-stay! For divas and those who prefer their showers indoors, this place will be unforgettable for less pleasant reasons.

Watching the sunrise and sunset, counting shooting stars, and soaking in the sun from the tree house between dips in the garden pool/tub were a highlight of my stay at Ikal.

At the beach La Valise, Nomade or BeTulum are some other incredible places to stay to get the authentic Tulum escape experience. At the Azulik the architecture is definitely amazing.

In town, two unique stays with great value for money are: Naala Tulum with its awesome rooftop and proximity to… well, everything! Last but not at all least, my personal favorite in town stay for its uniqueness and amazingly helpful concierge: Aroma Tulum.

In closing, Tulum has retained its magic although you may have to look closely for it between hoards of influencer and billboards. The land of the Mayans is still as magical, terrifying terrifying, mystical and unexpected as the adventurer in you hopes. Be sure to travel ethically: take care of the environment and support local whenever you can!