The gem of the YUCATAN, Tulum is an enchanting jungled coastline, riddled with ruins and resorts, where yogi masters and gurus flock to prey on monied seekers of experience. Now Solidly on the list of top world destinations, Tulum is a study in contradictions. Here’s what to expect and what to know before you plan your trip to this Mayan Mecca recently rediscovered by elite travelers as a wellness destination.

What is Tulum like?

Well, in brief summary, Tulum is comprised of immense “natural art” installations and luxurious eco hotels next to shanties, shacks, and porta-potties leaking sewage onto a dusty narrow trap of a dirt road clogged with crawling traffic all day, everyday. Consider yourself warned, Tulum is now the current backdrop of choice for elbowing hoards of selfie seekers.

Very little of what you see in Tulum is authentic culture or locally owned. New York money sweeps in profits from New York prices, while locals drive out of the area to live and shop, cartels battle for the lucrative territory, and the Mexican government pockets large sums from foreign investors for “permits” while providing no infrastructure. What used to be a haven for international adventurers and yogis is now a shaky boom town where electricity and plumbing work only half the time.

Tulum’s setting is as incredible as ever, but this jungle/cenote ecosystem, unique to the world will be obsolete in 20 years at the current rate of destruction. Tulum was the sight where Cortez landed in Mexico, but capitalism is the colonizer here now, speedily clearing virgin jungle for more hastily built hotels, stripping the area of its resources while making money hand over fist. I still can’t decide if Tulum is heaven or hell.

How is Tulum laid out?

Map of Tulum 2022 — Map of Tulum and Beaches

Tulum is laid out like an x with the “town” being at the center of the X. One line is the road going down the Yucatán coastline all the way from Cancun. The line crossing that goes toward the center of the Yucatán in one direction and the beach in the other, where it meets another small, dirt, and very high traffic road at a roundabout. At the roundabout, North (left) takes you to hotels closer to the archeological zone and South (right) to the “hotel zone”, a seemingly endless stretch of hotels, boutiques, and restaurants on the other side of which is a beautiful white sand beach where beach club after beach club after beach club pours itself out into the sand and mystic house music throbs late into the night.

What is there to do in Tulum?

Cenotes:

Gran Cenote Tulum — Gran Cenote in Tulum

The Yucatan’s infamous and picturesque sinkholes are where swimmers can access a magical realm of underground caves and rivers. The Mayans believed these were entrances to the land of the Gods. Cenotes can be subterranean, partially subterranean, or at the surface but the water is always bright blue and crystal clear. Some of our favorite cenotes:

Casa Tortuga: One of my favs. You will tour 4 cenotes as part of your entry fee, two subterranean and two surface cenotes. After the tour, you can swim and enjoy the surface cenotes freely. On-site, there is cliff jumping and floating and great food and trinket shopping.
Dos Ojos and Pet Cemetery (Sac Actun) are also locations where you can visit more than one amazing cenote with only one entry fee.
Gran Cenote: Close to Tulum town and while everyone will tell you its crowded, it’s really not that bad and it’s totally magical.

Sian Kaan:

Lagoons, floating the channels, and viewing the Muyil Ruins: Sian Kaan means “ Place where the sky was born” and once you go you will see why. This wasn’t at the top of my list but when I finally tried it I saw why people say you have to do it. It was incredible. If you’re not sure whether to add this to your itinerary, I encourage you to do so. You take a boat through stunningly vibrant aqua lagoons, then through channels both natural and carved by the Mayans finally arriving at an ancient Mayan trading outpost where you get out of the boat and just float freely through the crystal clear water channels in the biosphere. The ruins at Muyil are also incredible and not crowded as opposed to many other archeological sites.

Mayan Ruins:

Coba ruins and Cenote: An incredible site with multiple Mayan ball courts, several awe-inspiring classic-era pyramids, and the ruins of a whole city emerging at every turn from the jungle where monkeys swing overhead.

Tulum ruins: These are so crowded but just cannot be overrated because they are unbelievably lovely and incredible. This is a large site with much to explore. They say to go early and they mean it, this place will be packed out later in the day but even then be sure to make time for it.
Tulum Beach clubs: Plentiful and unique, just pick one that looks cool, order a drink, and pay the fee to relax! Later just walk up anywhere there’s a sign for it and get a sunset beach massage, the one thing in Tulum that is not overpriced.
Farther out: Chichinitza is a must-see archeological site of incredible proportion and historical importance.
The island of Cozumel: This is a great area for snorkeling, shipwreck diving and various water adventures.

Where to shop in Tulum:

Kaahal Home Tulum In town: A treasure trove of artisan home goods, unique knickknacks, jewelry, and clothing.
La Riviera Boutique In the hotel zone: This is the little shop of a great local designer. Located across the street from Hotel Maxanab
The area between Azulik south to the public beach has many shops and boutiques in a condensed area. Start around La Posada del Sol!

Is Tulum affordable?

No! Do some digging, there’s a few gems. Everything by the beach is spendy. Plentiful are the charming hotels where you will melt sweltering in overpriced rooms when the AC and power blink on and off and where toilets can’t handle toilet paper and there is almost definitely no cell signal. You’ll be assailed by adorable boutiques where bronze jewelry (that will turn your neck or hand green) goes for hundreds of US dollars, (no, not pesos, hundreds of US dollars) and trendy beach garb is artfully displayed at designer prices, sporting brands that can be purchased on Amazon for a third the price. Even the standard Mexican artisan items you see everywhere in Mexico and much of California is triple the price in Tulum. My advice, unless it’s a local designer (and yes there are a few gems!) shop in Cancun or before your trip or get inspired and shop after but don’t shop in Tulum, it’s a huge rip-off and most of the hotels and boutiques are owned by foreigners who are making a killing, not locals.

Where to eat in Tulum:

Food is also expensive in Tulum. There are some amazing places with reasonable prices scattered amongst the overpriced offerings however. One upside about Tulum is it’s an astonishingly international town for its size, and you can find some great world cuisine.

Unforgettable: Contesia with a “Down the Rabbit Hole” theme, this whimsical eatery is so cool but unlike most of Tulum now, remains unpretentious. Laid-back beach vibes, amazing food and drinks, and out-of-this-world Tulum magic.
Pizza & Drinks: La Hydra by Gigi amazing wood-fired pizza, with an awesome ambiance. Great price.
Vegan Mexican Food: Liefs incredible vegan/vegetarian menu, trendy cart-style eating. Good price.
Real Local Mexican Xiximak The owners are warm and friendly. Real Mexican food and great price.
Trendy & Drinks Encanto is truly enchanting, with fresh cuisine, amazing drinks, and an awesome atmosphere.
What about Montezuma’s Revenge? There are a lot of great dining options in Tulum, however, the more you explore the more you run the risk of encountering a meal that will have you puking the next morning. From experience, I’ll warn you this includes even “nice” and expensive places. I just run the risk but play it safer and avoid unbottled drinks and seafood if your stomach is more susceptible. As a tip: If you order lemonade get sparkling water rather than still as an extra precaution against food poisoning.
Grocery: Chedraui is the secret gem in Tulum where all the cheap stuff is. Take a stroll down these air-conditioned aisles for a break from the bank-breaking, wallet-robbing, sweltering charm that is Tulum. The first time we went we grabbed a handful of snacks and drinks and the total was $8. Later we loaded up on snacks and drinks and grabbed a few trinkets for my daughter’s friends all for $20. Snacks that would be $3-$6 in the US are less than a dollar here. Also, you can find here, several rows of ATMs with low fees where you can get USD or Pesos.

Getting around in Tulum:

Have your hotel pick you up and drop you off at the airport. They will charge you about $20 more than if you grab a taxi yourself but there’s the upside of knowing it’s been handled for you and the driver will be familiar with the location of your hotel. It’s roughly an hour and a half to Tulum from the airport in Cancun.
Along the beach or in town there will be a lot nearby that’s walkable.
You can grab a taxi from the beach into town or the other way around or to the ruins for between $15 and $20. It’s almost as easy to flag a taxi in Tulum as it is in New York City. Only use marked taxis and agree on the price before getting in the taxi.
Biking is a cheap way to get around just be careful and in good shape because it’s HOT and sometimes very humid and there aren’t always bike lanes or safe shoulders of the road and there are no streetlights after dark. Most hotels rent bikes for an average of $15 a day.
Tours to ruins or cenotes will usually provide their own transport. Ask your hotel about tours, for more personal and nicer experiences AirB&B has great local tours, they are more expensive but if riding a crowded bus and being herded around all day isn’t your idea of adventure it may be worth it to spring for it.
If you are cheap and also brave there is a pretty decent bus system.

Is Tulum safe:

Um….. Mostly. Let me just preface this by saying that I have enjoyed traveling in Tulum both as a solo female traveler and with my daughter in tow. Although I’ve had to navigate some interesting scenarios I haven’t felt threatened or unsafe. I always plan and research before I go on excursions, trust my gut, and ask locals for recommendations. Locals are fairly patient with tourists, they’ll be helpful, informative, and kind although you’ll be outrageously overcharged for absolutely everything (with a smile).

That being said, there have been numerous shootings in the town of Tulum already in 2021 and even several on the beaches as cartels vie for the lucrative tourism-monied territory. Police are hand in hand with the cartels but the national guard keeps up a strong (armed) presence on the streets and roads throughout Tulum to deter cartel activity. I was told by locals to stay off of one road in particular in a town called Del Sur where there are frequent shootings and be aware of your surroundings, especially after dark.

You will be at much higher risk if you buy drugs or do drugs. Marijuana is illegal in Mexico, I’ve known people who received a full search and shakedown by four policemen when they simply lit a cigarette on the street, such searches are motivated by hopes that contraband could be found and a cash “fine” extorted.

Drive very cautiously or perhaps preferably take taxis and don’t drive at all. Other drivers are very aggressive, roads are poorly kept and narrow. The rules of the road are open to interpretation. If you do have an incident be prepared to pay the police cash on the spot regardless of whether you are at fault.