Palacio Belmonte
Rooftops from the Palacio Belmonte in Lisbon
The panoramic view from this private haven atop the Palacio Belmonte is nothing short of breathtaking. Several strains of fado music make their way up to our perch high above the rooftops of the city, melodies blending as they waft on the slight tendrils of a cool breeze. Pastel colored homes spill down to the water in the steep historic Alfama neighborhood, accented by the white towers of Sao Vicente and dome of the pantheon. Gazing over tiled rooftops in the other direction the Christo Rei looms protectively above a glimmering bay.
Leaving the terrace, barefeet feel refreshingly cool on the spiral stone stair it’s a short descent to the cozy bedroom, inviting in soft coral hues. I pick up the copy of assorted poems by Fernando Pessoa that I’d abandoned there before descending a further flight to the sitting room with its high domed ceiling and exquisite azulejos framing large open windows. One can’t help but note how remarkably the suite’s abounding comforts compliment its history, an enchanting escape occupying a tower that is over 700 years old.
It would be difficult to encounter a more compelling location. Parts of the Palácio date back to 138 BC. A Roman wall has been juxtaposed alongside brickwork from the moorish era and modern art installations are encased inside an ornate facade finished in the 1700’s. This comfortable guest residence is the fruit of a tedious renovation taking place over the course of 6 years resurrecting the incredible history and potential of the site through the painstaking care of its owners Frederic & Maria Coustols.
In the summer the Palacio inhales like a living thing as impeccably trained staff open windows during key hours of the day allowing airflow through channels in the walls causing the interior spaces to cool naturally. In winter underfloor water heating flows, warming the Palácio non-intrusively as heat rises. The walls themselves breathe through age old limestone mortar and plaster treatments, a tradition of craftsmanship carefully studied and replicated in the stead of less natural modern finishing materials.
As you walk through the palacio the experience is that of a gallery. Resident artists and exquisite commissions create a living progression that has been carefully and immaculately curated. Spacious common areas flow together each more enchanting than the next, beckoning guests to unwind and mingle. The library’s laden walls of pages invite you to sink deep into a book, while picturesque small spaces summon intimate conversation.
A feeling of health and wellbeing thrums through the labyrinthian corridors and charming stone stairways, while a multitude of windows connect the inside spaces with the gardens, courtyard cafe and glimmering pool. From every suite and terrace sweeping views of Lisbon compel you to stop and take in the city’s picturesque colors tumbling down steep hills to the shores of the broad Tagus river.
A twilight conversation in the garden with Frederic lent a glimpse of the passion behind the Belmonte. A warm and energetic man with a flair of the eccentric, the range of discussion was fascinating as we spoke of his other ambitious restoration projects, a vast vision of sustainable and cultural strides taking place hand in hand. We joined his wife Maria and a friend for dinner and on the way back Maria and I talked at length about the art at the palacio and the artist residencies that have left their mark. Her own paintings can be found among the pieces showcased there.
During my stay I explored the city, navigating the steep streets of Alfama, the antique fair at Sao Vicente, local cuisine and of course tracking down coffee and bookshops. Always upon return I’d feel a sense of coming home, as the ease of this estate tucked so perfectly into the bustling weave of the city, worked its charms.
Every extraordinary place contains a song, each note telling the layers of its history, the intent of its sculptors and the heartbeat of its inhabitants. We catch its rhythm in our subconscious, syncing our breath with its melodies. We become part of its story and it becomes a part of ours. The Belmonte’s song one of timelessness, of ancient ages long past, of a bustling city with all of its textures, stories, of surviving an earthquake and riding tumultuous change, finally of preservation, and becoming. To step foot inside the Palacio Belmonte is not so much to step back in time as to step outside of time.
Despite the city of Lisbon’s plentiful offerings I found it increasingly hard to leave the grounds of the Palacio. Relaxing at the glinting pool, the sound of its free flowing water lulling my eyes closed from its dreamy setting amidst the lush garden or reading on the rooftop terrace where I’d take breakfast while watching the sun rise over the city.
The palacio weaves a spell from the moment you arrive and athough the staff were incredibly helpful arranging travel details with seamless competency, I found myself lingering in the courtyard a moment a slight nostalgia for my time there already setting in.
