Castelnau des Fieumarcon
For nearly a thousand years Castelnau des Fieumarcon has commanded its stunning vantage point above the rolling hills of Gascony, watching the ages come and go. Not unchanged by the hands of time, the passing of centuries has seen Castelnau transformed from a bustling fortress and thriving medieval village to a crumbling vacant ruin, in which state it seemed destined to remain until recent decades when the current owner purchased it, undertaking a daunting venture to revitalize the site.
And what an undertaking it was. To put it lightly, It takes a certain force of will to carry the weight of past centuries and bring them into the future without losing everything that one hopes to preserve.
Those who know the Castelnau’s owner, Frederick might agree that he is a character that somewhat defies description, but for my purposes here could best be summarized as a formidable visionary with a passion for the intersection of art and history.
With Frederik’s energy and attention, this behemoth undertaking saw the old walled village lifted from ruin and brought back to life. Every care was taken as the remaining structures were historically preserved and sympathetically renovated to the demanding standards of the Venice charter. The result was an accomplishment that garnered no small amount of acclaim, including a visit from British royalty to commend the work.
Adorned still with its medieval charm and once again thriving, Castelnau has become a place quite outside of time, playing host to the past and the future all at once as a premier event and wedding destination for those in the know.
These days, come summer, Castelnau’s cobbled streets brim with life. The old stables converted into a banquet hall ring with music and dancing late into the evening. The old tavern now houses brides-to-be. Children climb trees while the village dog J looks stoically on.
When night falls, secret trysts are carried out amidst the villages winding paths. As it should be, new memories and new beginnings are again made in this incredible location brimming with history.
A gathering place second to none, It’s hard to find anything that quite compares to this French fairytale setting. Guests to the Castelnau enjoy breathtaking views between 14 charming residences, connected by cobbled streets and picturesque gardens. Its ancient church, sprawling towered facade, and the original Bastion overlooking the valley are immaculately preserved.
Every idyllic vantage competes for postcard prominence as ancient stone walls, flowers in many layered colors and mature fruit trees laden with fruit and figs line the village paths.
In the most recent twist adding a layer to its history, Castelnau des Fieumarcon is the current seat of the renowned food blogger and chef Anneli Faiers whose devotion and attentiveness reach into every corner of the village. Bubbling with life, frank and funny, her British accent can be heard from a distance as she directs her capable staff.
The Castelnau staff are comprised of a dauntless cast of characters (a buffet of personality that could easily merit its own TV show), who maintain the village with immaculate care to preserve its history while ensuring the utmost comfort of its visitors.
It’s a place that inspires nostalgia before you ever leave. Amongst its medieval paths, you’ll catch the faintest smell of plums fermenting in the summer sun where they’ve fallen, the sun catching the tail of one of the village cats as it disappears around an outcrop, the occasional fragile crunch of a tiny snail underfoot, or if you’re lucky a solitary moment enveloped in the wind whipping up over the bastion. These things find a permanent place in my memory. So too, evenings of long conversations and unchecked laughter, sipping wine, soaking in endless sunsets and resplendent views of Gascon’s hazy, verdant valleys as the heat of the day slowly dissipates.
