Versailles is one of Paris’ crowning jewels. This iconic monument to opulence is a mere 45 minutes by train from the heart of Paris but when you arrive, you enter another world.

One of the most famous palaces in the world and well worthy of its reputation, Versailles is frequently filmed and still lavishly put to use by the one-percent, a stage like no other for fashion shows and luxuriously exclusive soirées. However, in a nod from the overthrown overlords of the past to ‘the common people’, visitors may purchase a day pass and enter a mass queue to roam its glittering halls and wander its magical gardens. Movies and magazines do not do Versailles justice, this is one of those places you simply must see IRL.

The crescendo of an epoch, draped in gilded magnificence;
Versailles is not a whisper from history, but an opera.

To get to Versailles, we wound out of Paris and into the countryside, soaking in views from the second level of the train. On the way we shared headphones and conversation over a lunch we’d brought from the boulangerie just around the corner from our hotel in Le Marais. The time flew by and after a short walk from the train station we were at our destination. Past a snaking line of sightseers held at bay by formidable gold encrusted gates, stood the palace of Versailles, wrapped in layers of history yet timeless in it’s sureal grandeur.

We idled a bit in the Palace’s cobblestone courtyard. A light breeze alleviated the warm summer sun as the expanse of architecture wrapped itself around us. Entering the maze of intricately sculpted halls, expansive painted ceilings and stuffy, ornate bedchambers, we wandered for hours, loosing ourselves in an astounding chapter of France’s past.

A brief history of Versailles:

From hunting grounds to chateau to opulent palace, Versailles evolved and erupted into glory with the monarchic figures who sculpted its grandeur and in turn rose and fell against its emblematic backdrop.

The land Versailles occupies was once a natural refuge, its original attractions were lush forest and meadows thronging with wildlife. Our story begins in August 1607, when Louis XIII, at the time a young king to be, first came to Versailles and found the area ideallic for hunting excursions and conveniently close to Paris yet removed from city bustle. He visited again several times before eventually building a humble hunting lodge at the site in 1624. A few years later plans were laid for a more substantial royal residence which was finished in 1634.

His son Louis XIV, was always very fond of visiting the chateau at Versailles but he envisioned a much more extravagant plan for the site and it was he who conceived of the palace that is so famous today. From the early 1660’s Louis XIV built toward his magnificent ambitions for Versailles and the work continued throughout his lifetime. During his reign, he moved his administration and the whole of the French court to Versailles and it became the (un-offical) capital of the kingdom in 1682.

This was a golden age for Versailles, now the very heart of French politics, and it became the glitering stage upon which the intrigues of the French court were played out to thier most decadent and diabolic.

Multitudes of books, movies and TV shows have been created, inspired by Versailles at this fascinating juncture in time. The sheer scale of the entertainments carried on at the palace in this era were of historic proportion. However, nothing lasts forever, and with Louis XIV’s death in 1715, Versailles fell into relative disuse by the royal court for some years.

Time passed and it was Louis XV (who was himself born at Versailles), who would rekindle efforts toward his great-grandfather’s vision for the Palace’s grandeur. Louis XV was often in residence at Versailles and consistently expanded and renovated in a series of building projects including completion of the Royal Opera House which his great grandfather had begun. Notably Motzart performed at Versailles as a child prodigy during this period.

These lavish attentions toward the estate were continued by Louis XVI in whose fated reign, the final curtain would be drawn on the monarchy of France.

As the last royal residents of Versailles, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette lived out one of the most infamous and opulent dramatic chapters of European history against Versailles’ magnificent backdrop.

Louis XVI was born at Versailles, like his father and grandfather. It was at Versailles that he and Marie Antoinette, age 15 and 14 respectively, met for the first time and were married on the same day, (having been married by proxy two years earlier). The extravagant celebration was one of the grandest occasions of the century. It began on May 16th with the wedding and continued until May 30th, when it ended horrifically as party fireworks killed 132 people. Thankfully Versailles was the host of many splendid spectacles thereafter, which ended less gruesomely. Historically, Versailles would host the very first hot air balloon flight, on Sept 9th 1783. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette spent much of their time at Versailles with the court traversing back and forth from Paris rather than living on site.

As we well know, the decadence of French aristocratic life juxtaposed against that of a poverty stricken populace, proved dry tinder for the sparks of the enlightenment. Tumultuous change burned bright on the horizon and in early October 1789 the Royal couple would make what was to be their last journey to Paris, never to return to their beloved Versailles.

Versailles itself survived the reign of terror better then its inhabitants, 1793, the Palace was declared a public establishment but by the end of the revolution it had fallen into gross disrepair. For a time the palace served as a museum, but under Napoleon, Versailles was designated as an extension of the Invalides, its fountains were repaired and the palace better maintained.

Enchanting and incomparable, beloved Versailles could never be forgotten by the people of France. Versailles remains from then to this day, the site of many historic events, notable visits and powerful gatherings.

Painted ceilings at Versailles — An exquisitely painted ceiling at Versailles.

Planning a trip to Versailles? Things to know before you go:

How much time does it take to see Versailles? Versailles for the first time should be planned as a day trip excursion. The palace and its sprawling gardens are massive, and though it is merely 45minutes from the heart of Paris you will want to make a day of it, if this is your first visit. There’s so much to see and you’ll want to take your time. If you can plan your visit ahead, its worth it to note, there are musical fountain and equestrian shows for extra cost on certain days. See the events schedule at Versailles HERE.

What should I bring to Versailles? Bring refreshments, food and drink will be expensive or hard to find nearby and non-existent at the site itself. Bring water or drinks with electrolytes, bring lunch (grab a sandwich from a boulengerie before you leave Paris), bring snacks.

Bring a camera, bring a cute outfit (for pics) with comfy shoes (for all the standing and walking), bring entertainment for what may potentially be a long wait in line.

How bad is the line at Versailles? The line can be 2 hours long! Go early. The queue for this site is one of the worst in the world. I highly recommend you get the “skip the line pass” no matter the cost but if you must queue with the hoards (and there will be hoards) go early and bring sunscreen, umbrella (for searing sun or rain), comfortable shoes, maybe a book or your iPad with a movie to watch. You may be in line for hours. Don’t forget the snacks and drinks!

Can I take photos at Versailles? Yes! (But no flash) This is a site where they will allow you to bring a nice camera and snap away. If you’re taking pics of yourself choose your moment and be polite, discreet, quick and considerate (we are all super over the pushy and oblivious gram hams who give travel a bad name these days, looking at you “influencers”).

How much does it cost to visit Versailles? You must book a timeslot to visit The Palace. It costs 20 euro for the whole estate and 18 euro to tour just the palace. There are also bundles and experiences, access is free for visitors under 18 or for european residents under 26 years. You can see more details about ticket prices and who can visit free, and book tickets or a timeslot HERE.

How do I get to Versailles from Paris? The best way to get to Versailles from Paris is by train. You will want the RER (Line C) train, which departs from Métro stations in the center of Paris and arrives at the Versailles Château Rive Gauche station, which is the closest train station to the Palace itself. The train ride takes 45 minutes to an hour. From the Château Rive Gauche station, it's about a 10-minute walk to the château. You can check train schedules here: https://www.ratp.fr/en/itineraires

Hall of Mirrors Versailles — Entering The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles

Highlights at Versailles include the infamous and glimmering Hall of Mirrors, where windows meet a wall of reflections and the ceiling is punctuated with crystal chandeliers, inviting light to make its way about the vaulted expanse with an effect that is truly magical.

Au revoir Versailles.

We emerged in the gardens as the sun sank low, casting long shadows over vibrant greens and shimmering pools. We enjoyed the breathtaking views and found the gardens a welcome respite from our exploration of the labyrinthian Palace. The remainder of the afternoon was soon lost and as we made our way to leave, the palace and the grounds glowed in the evening light. Tourists had somehow disappeared as if some vacuum had removed them all on cue. An almost eerie air settled as we made our way over the now quiet cobbled stones so crowded earlier. Mercifully standing just outside the palace gates was a man posted as if just for us, selling cold waters for a euro.