Tromsø - Norway
Located 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Tromsø has been called “The Paris of the North”. This moniker seems a bit exaggerated at first, for a small islet town without apparent sophistication, until you spend a little time in the vast wilderness surrounding this northern outpost of civilization and then return. Suddenly Tromsø’s streets are metropolitan, and its offerings of boutiques, outfitters, coffee shops, museums and restaurants form a warm embrace, made all the more endearing by its stunning and expansive arctic surrounds.
Photographer notes: From a photography perspective, I have noticed the “color of cold” as an interesting phenomenon in images captured in subfreezing temperatures. It is as though the very crisp crystalline nature of the frigid air somehow translates through the camera.
Although pro gear is well designed to withstand bumps and moisture I have noticed exposure to extreme cold will always create a lag. So I researched some warming options prior to this trip. I found some excessively bulky and expensive “camera parkas” but nothing practical and versatile. I instead fashioned my own “camera sweater” from a merino wool baklava. This was sufficient to keep the beast firing at full speed despite extensive time at or below freezing.
Likewise, I tracked down some fingerless Merino gloves and this minimalist combo was just what I needed while still easy to bring everywhere and pack away.
Culture and History at the End of The World: Tromsø may not be home to the Louvre, but it boasts a slew of Arctic and Norse-themed museums that should not be missed. The Polar Museum houses a fascinating collection of Arctic exploration trappings, skilled if disconcerting taxidermy displays, and explorer history. This almost haunting experience takes you back in time to an era when the search for a Northern Passage was an endeavor that gripped the world, a time when Tromsø really was the end of the earth and those who set forth from here on various expeditions of discovery had more chance of disappearing into the white unknown than returning. You can check The Polar Museum out here on the website but honestly the site doesn’t do it justice and I recommend you simply buy tickets at the desk on entry.
Another memorable museum in Tromsø is the Troll Museum. If you have the slightest interest in the infamous Troll lore of Norway, this is a really fun stop. It’s unique, it’s small but interactive and immersive (and warm!) you can see more on their website HERE.
Exploring the Arctic from Tromsø; For this trip, we did not opt to rent a vehicle as I was uncertain what weather we would get stuck with and did not want to stress over driving in ice and snow. It took some planning but it is possible with tours and ferries to see quite a bit of the region without a vehicle. This proved to be ideal for a first visit to the area.
Indigenous Sami culture and visiting the reindeer
This is an unforgetable experience. Whether you are an animal lover, a lover of history, and culture, or just interested in the Arctic region, this is a fantastic way to spend an evening or afternoon.
When we arrive a woman in traditional Sami dress greats us, a heavy blue skirt swirling and complimented by bright red accents, a nice pop of color against the snow. We are ushered from the fridged cold into a warm teepee-like structure called a Lavvo, where we are seated on fur-lined benches around a bright and toasty fire. Here we are introduced by our Sami guide to the itinerary for the evening, and given some advice about the reindeer and how to approach them. Female reindeer will be calving soon in the coming spring and they may be a bit pushy when feeding as they are hormonal. Reindeer can be jumpy and easily startled, if they do startle just stay put and let them go around you. We broke into groups to take turns feeding reindeer or to experience the reindeer sledding. Ours is the first group to try the reindeer sleigh and I am surprised that we two are pulled effortlessly by one reindeer, and it makes the whole Santa being pulled by “eight tiny reindeer” thing seem so much more feasible (yes they are tiny but very strong). We set out into a beautiful moody blue arctic gloaming. The lights of nearby farms glow and the silhouettes of pine trees become black, framing the flat slushy plain that we traverse. It’s quiet and only the squelch of the reindeer’s hooves in the wet snow breaks the silence of the growing night.
Upon returning we have the opportunity to feed the reindeer, filling a bucket and placing it on our shoulders to walk, each of us dispersing so that the reindeer don’t crowd too much. While I was walking a reindeer sneaked up behind me and jumped up placing both its paws on my shoulder to get my attention. At first, I thought it was a person because it’s a person’s height and so light. Feeding the reindeer is fun but a lot of work as they jostle each other and they would poke or paw at you to try to get your attention. They were small enough not to be too intimidating even if they got greedy. It was such a cool experience to be in the reindeer herd and we stayed with them until we couldn’t feel our hands. We headed inside a log cabin-style lodge, to warm up. Here we sat on fur line benches, were served a salmon salad, a delicious traditional Sami reindeer stew, coffee brewed in pots over the central fire and desert with berries.
The finale and perhaps highlight of the whole experience was a relaxed fireside where a Sami woman spoke about Sami history, dress, lore, and traditions, sang a few traditional songs, and answered questions.
I will say a few things that barely brush the surface but I invite you to book your own excursion. The Sami are a nomadic reindeer herding people native to the northernmost regions of Norway, Finland, and Sweden and their territories ranged through all three countries long before borders were drawn up.
The Indigenous Sami have a “sacred”, full-circle relationship with the reindeer that is part of their spiritualism, tradition, and every aspect of their way of life. Up until not that long ago they were systematically persecuted in their own countries and have only recently received recognition and protections.
This whole excursion was packed and we were picked up and dropped off in Tromsø making it all the more easy to incorporate this into our itinerary. You can book your own unforgettable experience HERE.
Aurora Hut
Stay right on the sea or in the trees above the water in an Aurora hut for the best chance to get an upfront view of the Northern Lights.
For the best chances at seeing the northern lights and an opportunity to immerse ourselves in nature, we took the ferry south from Tromsø, a scenic hour through stunning mountain-framed waterways to a little haven called Attme Have where we had arranged to stay in an Aurora Hut. I was worried about setting off into the remote hinterlands of the Arctic but the ferry stop was a quick five-minute walk away from our inn-style accommodations.
This stay was nothing short of magical, complete with a faint but lovely Aurora Borealis show by night and a stunning pink sunrise over snowy mountains surrounding the fjord, as a bright white arctic ermine explored the rocks just an arms length from me beyond the glass of our immersive, cozy little hideaway. We actually did a shoot here and you can check that out HERE or our feature on Attme Have HERE.
Road Trip through Senja Island
From Attme Have, because the weather was fantastic, we rented a car for the day to do a road trip exploring the nearby Island of Senja. After fueling up with a coffee in Finnsnes, we drive over the bridge into Senja. Our scenic road trip took us first along the inland coast of the island. We saw some reindeer just where we turned up to cut east to the outer coastline. Our curiosity to explore Senja was rewarded with one jaw-dropping Nordic vista after another. For locals, as with all places, the surroundings must be normalized but seeing these views for the first time is a neck-craning experience punctuated by many photo stops.
This was a stunning full-day adventure, summiting icy peaks and navigating long dark tunnels that have been dug under the island’s precipitous towering crags. These tunnels give access to the small picturesque fishing hamlets that are tucked along Senja’s many jagged mountainous fingers which jut far into the Arctic Ocean. Such outposts would have been shut off from the world for large portions of the year in the past but these long tunnels through the belly of the mountain make reaching them as dramatic an experience as ever.
We stopped in scenic Mefjordvaer to use what were apparently the only public bathrooms for many miles, which were located at the literal end of the road, out on a pier for ultimate views of the town nestled into the snowy fjord.
One of the most stunning stops we made during our road trip on Senja and one worthy of some real exploring was the scenic Tungeneset Viewpoint. This viewpoint boasts a masterpiece of Nordic architecture, with sharp angled woodwork that compliments the jagged natural beauty of its setting perfectly.
As the sun was starting to sink we stopped at Bergsbotn Utsiktsplattform, a stunning viewpoint that juts out dramatically from the edge of the mountain over the fjord below. The temperature was dropping quickly however and we were at a high elevation, the road wound up from here into the icy mountain and I had just begun to be concerned that it may not be ideal to drive this pass in the evening when a tunnel opened up before us and we once again descended into the underbelly of the mountain to emerge under the peaks. An all-white scene carved into mountain valleys between summits is the pillowy setting for our slow descent.
As we drive through the high mountain planes and valleys cutting through the middle of Senja, the evening sun catches on distant peaks of neighboring islands, casting them in blues and golds and shining like a specter of Valhalla above valleys of snow sprinkled with little trees. The sunset over stunning arctic landscapes is long and demanded multiples photo stops but eventually we are crossing the bridge again and leaving Senja behind, with much more to explore another day.
Norwegian Travel: Camp Tamok
For our time in Arctic Norway, I’d looked at outfitters and excursions that arrange inclusive experiences to maximize travel time and location and while doing so, I stumbled upon Norwegian Travel. They set it up for us to be able to visit their mountain camp, 90 minutes from Tromsø where one could book in advance to join in dog sledding, reindeer feeding, snowmobiling, northern lights safari, and visit the famous Ice Hotel. This was a great way to spend a day (or immersive two days) in nature, experiencing some highlights of Arctic adventure.
This was an incredible experience and we did a full feature on our excursion with Norwegian Travel, you can check that our HERE.
Shopping in Tromsø
Tromsø is full of great little tourist trap shops with the standard fare Norway Travel paraphernalia. If you want something local, quality, and unique to remember your visit by (or just to stay warm) we recommend local brand Reinlove, a relaxed hipster-style clothing shop in a chill loungy environment with custom roasted coffee (doesn’t get better than this!).
There is a Sami shop in town not far from the tourist information center and while some of the things here are cheaply made these are the other shops nearby are still a good bet for some trinkets and Arctic ephemera.
Our overall favorite shopping in Tromsø may be the Thrifting. This was a great way to find home-knit mittens, quality Norse style wool sweaters, ear warmers etc…
Tromsø is well worth some time to explore with hot coffee in hand and has some cozy restaurants with arctic exploration decor that will get you in the mood for your own Polar adventures.
Getting Around Tromsø:
It’s easy enough to get a cab and the bus is consistent and well-connected to the key areas of town. Most excursions meet and drop off in town as well making it easy to explore the area without renting a car. As I’d mentioned we did use the ferry system to go south down the fjords and back, which was a bit confusing but with some help from friendly locals we sorted ourselves out.
We did rent a car to explore the island of Senja because the weather was clear and there had been a melt, but in general, depending on your comfort level driving in winter weather I might not plan to rent a car for the entirety of your trip. Weather can change by the day and while locals don’t blink at half a foot of fresh snow or driving on several inches of ice intermittently, it may not be worth the stress.
We stayed in Tromsdalen one night, the cozy residential part of Tromsø across the bridge from the old town (by the Arctic Cathedral, you won’t miss it). We had a mixed experience as our Inn was managed remotely and they sent the wrong key code access and it took 45 minutes to resolve. Luckily someone came along to at least let us in out of the cold or we would have been standing in the freezing temperatures all that time. All’s well that ends well as they say and we gratefully warmed up in our cozy room once we were finally able to access it.
We ventured out on foot later as we were starving. There are not many options in the quiet Tromsdalen neighborhood but we found a place where we curiously ordered the Mexican pizza (I guess this is a thing in Norway and, to be honest, it is a hybrid that is not without its merits).
Before long our time in Arctic Norway was at an end but it’s the sort of place that leaves you hungering for adventure and wanting to push yourself further. Norway is a country it is easy to fall in love with from its laidback and frank people to its breathtaking natural geography and wildlife. We are already planning future visits.
Explore More in Tromsø Norway:
Staying in an Aurora Hut on the Fjord
Visiting Norway’s Viking Themed Ice Hotel
Behind the Scenes on a Photoshoot with Branwyn
Arctic Adventures with Norwegian Travel