On an island off the coast of Portugal a stone fort juts sharply above the aquamarine waters of a hidden cove. A thin walkway links the fort to an island, spanning a harrowing drop over the waves below, before climbing up a vertical switchback stair hewn from the side of the island’s cliffs.

The scene looks magical and unreal, like a scene out of a video game. This secret hideaway is Grand Berlenga Island, a 20-minute boat excursion from the bustling surf mecca of Peniche.

Peniche is a pastel painting with its timeless wind-whipped patinas, crumbling edifices, quaint narrow streets, surf shops, and mouthwatering seafood guarded by watchful seagull sentries. The surf here is more than worth the day trip from Lisbon but it was an off-shore excursion that lured us to these picturesque beaches.

Color and textures of Peniche — Colors and texture of Peniche

We rendezvoused with Feeling Berlenga where we chose the “fast” boat ride out to the island (Tip: Book the excursion ahead. Plot the bus ride from Lisbon carefully and make note of times, unless you rent a car there aren’t many ways to and from this little town!). We had booked with Feeling Berlenga well ahead and they were excellent communicators, contacting us near the date to confirm and again to warn of “rough seas” a day in advance.

THE ROUGH SEAS WERE NOT AT ALL DISAPPOINTING, OUR SPEED BOAT CAUGHT AIR MANY TIMES MAKING FOR QUITE THE THRILL RIDE, OUR STOMACHS DROPPING OUT AS WE DIPPED DRAMATICALLY BETWEEN CAPPING LARGE SWELLS.

Our attentive guides checked in frequently to make sure everyone was having an awesome time despite the roller coaster, as we tore toward the little island of Berlenga.

A treacherous path to the fort on Berlenga Island

THE FORT ON THE ISLAND MAKES A MAGICAL PICTURE AND HAS A HISTORY LIKE SOMETHING OUT OF THE MOVIE PRINCESS BRIDE. 

In the Dark Ages monks built a monastery on the site because it seemed an idyllic place to pray and sequester from the world. Unfortunately, they were eventually forced to abandon their island escape because they were the victims of frequent raids by pirates and privateers. A medieval king of Portugal ordered a fort to be built on the monastery’s remains in 1502 however the construction was slow (over 100 years) until the fort, still under construction, was key in thwarting a princess’s kidnapping. Maria Francisca of Savoy was en route to marry the king of Portugal when the Spanish attempted to kidnap her, their plans were prevented and King Alfonso VI ordered the fortress repaired and its defenses increased.

A lurid bit of history… Alfonso was a young king puppeted by a power-hungry politician. He was described as physically impaired and mentally unstable. Perhaps luckily for Maria, he was not at all interested in consummating the marriage. Meanwhile, the princess was smart and politically astute. She was intent to rule and formed an alliance with Afonso’s brother Pedro which led to a love affair. She maneuvered politically to see her husband removed from the throne, after which she had her marriage annulled on grounds of non-consummation and married his brother who became the new ruler of Portugal.

The fort at Grande Berlenga (still under construction) was leveled by the Spanish in 1666 and so it was not officially completed until 1678. The fort saw action in several continental wars but in the 1840’s after being damaged during the Portuguese Civil War it fell into gradual disrepair. In 1953 it was repaired once more and remodeled for use as an inn. In the 1980’s it became a national monument and renovations were commenced to make it structurally secure once more. It remains an inn and restaurant, an outpost for summer travelers and day trippers alike to explore the beautiful nature reserve of the island above if they dare brave the precarious winding path.

Making our adventure complete, Feeling Berlenga took us on a cave tour around the island with the glass bottom boat, pointing out vantages from just offshore including a secret heart-shaped cave, where local legend has it that if couples are “intimate” their love will last forever. As you round the island’s tiny coastline a dramatic rock formation takes the shape of an elephant and our tour included a thrilling shortcut through what appeared at first to be a tiny cave but turned out to be a tidal tunnel cutting narrowly through the rock.

Elephant Rock at Berlenga Island Portugal — Elephant Rock Formation at Berlenga Island, Portugal

On another side of the island a small hamlet comprised of some white-washed beachy abodes and a little tavern jutting from the rock overlooks the bustling boat landing and on the hillside above a campsite tops the cove where a tiny sandy beach is tucked away.

WE SAT FOR A WHILE AT THE LITTLE TAVERN OUTCROP, ENJOYING AN ICE CREAM AND A BEER IN THE BREEZY SUMMER SUN WATCHING THE SMALL BOATS COME AND GO AND CHILDREN SHRIEKING AT PLAY.

The remaining hours found us exploring the vistas the island offers ending at the beach to wade and cool our feet. A reminder; the island is a nature reserve and the park rangers take their job incredibly seriously… be warned YOU WILL GET FINED a couple hundred euros if you step foot off the marked paths!

Lane Oliveri at Berlenga Island Portugal

THE DAY FELT UNUSUALLY SHORT, EVERY SECOND FILLED TO THE BRIM AND FAR TOO SOON WE FOUND OURSELVES EMBARKING ON OUR RETURN VOYAGE. THE SETTING SUN GLINTED OVER THE ROILING SEA AS GRANDE BERLENGA ISLAND LIT UP IN GOLDEN PINK HUES BEHIND US.

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