Castello Di Burgos dramatically rises about the valley — Castello Di Burgos in Sardinia

Sardinia is full of surprises, from stunning aqua coastline, pristine beaches, and dramatic sea caves to medieval castles, and mysterious ruins left by an ancient people. Sardinia is large enough that it would require many visits to fully explore and it’s no surprise that this enchanting island is one Italy’s favorite summer playgrounds.

Driving through Sardinia: Castles and Wildfires

I landed in Alghero and set out for the Orosei coast in my rental car. With no direct high-speed freeways, my route took me winding across the arid countryside, rising slowly into mountains.

Read more about Alghero in Sardinia — Alghero

Read more about the quaint bustling port city in Sardinia that remains alive until the early hours of the morning all summer.

Before crossing the island to where I’d stay the week on the Gulf of Orosei I took a detour to see the picturesque Castelsardo, a fortress and rainbow-hued village that jut out into the sea on a rocky promontory.

Castelsardo

Castelsardo is on the northern coast of Sardinia and It is possible to see mountainous Corsica rising from the azure-colored sea as you take in the sweeping vistas along the winding coastal road. Castelsardo was founded in 1270 by the Doria family of Genoa but like many regions of Sardinia, it changed hands several times between powerful families, passing from the Genoese to the Aragonese and later to the Kingdom of Savoia at which time it took its modern name.

Human civilization at Castelsardo dates back to the Neolithic, evidenced most notoriously by the "Domus de Janas", which translates in English to "houses of the fairies", these are cavities housing tomb structures that were excavated in the cliffs.

Many Nuraghi (the conical fortresses and structures that were built during Sardinia’s Bronze Age) are found in the Castelsardo region, so many archeologists believe the area was a cultural hub that held importance in the mysterious ancient culture.

The region takes pride in many local cultural offerings and is well known for its lobster dishes and fine coral exports, so shopping and dining are a must. Castelsardo’s colorful streets are easily walkable and beg to be explored. I was loath to tear myself away from this idyllic location but I still had a long drive in front of me so after some shopping and a generous lunch I continued my journey inland.

Ancient Nuragic Ruins

I had heard a little about mysterious ruins sprinkled across the island of Sardinia. Evidence of an ancient Sardinian civilization called the Nuraghe is marked by the remains of extraordinary cylindrical structures they built long ago. While driving across the island I just happened past one of these incredible fortresses and impulsively stopped to explore. From the road, the site looked relatively unimpressive, and I had no idea even walking up, the size of the fortress I had discovered. This turned out to be one of the coolest archeological sites I’ve ever been able to explore, one reason being that all areas are open to walk through, as opposed to many ancient ruins where tourists are roped off from many areas.

Nuraghe Santu Antine, ancient ruins — Nuraghe Santu Antine

The Santu Antine Nuraghe fortress was impressive, only once you get closer do you start to realize the scale of the site. You walk through the stone remnants of a village as you approach. Once inside the fortress, there are multiple levels to explore, with ramparts, vaulted halls, a courtyard, rooms, and wells for water access. The architecture centers around one large cylindrical tower within which are multiple domed chambers and anti chambers.

The Nuraghe are a people still cloaked in mystery. A sophisticated Bronze Age civilization found nowhere but on the island of Sardinia, the Nuraghe were documented in brief by contemporary Greeks, but did not leave their own written records.

Archeologists have tried to piece together information about the island’s ancient peoples from the iconic, mortarless, cylindrical castles they built, and from artifacts. Still, despite the size and grandeur of some of these incredible fortresses and the sculptures and symbols that have been uncovered, we know very little about the Nuraghe society, religion, and daily life.

A Nuraghi (ancient conical fortress) in Sardinia

It was incredible exploring the ruins at leisure. The halls are well lit and there is information in English available to educate yourself about the various areas of the site as you go. Just off-site was a little gift shop and cafe, completing the perfect happenstance of the random stop. I refreshed before continuing.

Eventually, as I drove, the mountains fell away on one side, revealing a valley so far below that it was cloaked in grey and blue hues. Rock formations glowed in the light of the sun’s golden hour rays and suddenly a medieval castle, perched precariously on a massive stone outcrop, came into view. Cast in the full golden splendor of the hazy setting sun, the fortress seemed almost suspended in air with the valley so far below, the scene looked like a painting.

Burgos Castle towers over the Vally far below

I kept trying for another glimpse as the road wound around and steeply down, scanning for a place to stop and take a photo. Finally, the castle came into full view, when to add absurdity to an unreal scene, an airplane soared up from the tree line just in front of me, as if from nowhere, the castle an epic backdrop behind it. While I was paused in surprise, on the steep mountain pass, a helicopter zoomed low overhead from behind me, unloading a water drop so close in front of my vehicle that I braced on instinct.

I realized then the glowing haze was a brush fire on the slope just below the road I had only minutes before descended. Another helicopter flew in close and I became uncomfortably aware that I was the only car on the road. I kept driving, making my way through a surreal scene, a quaint town seemingly deserted, a castle perched on the rock above, helicopters flying back and forth overhead. It was a scene one might see in an over-the-top action film. It wasn’t the only wildfire I drove past on my way from Alghero to the eastern coast of Sardinia but it was the closest and by far the most dramatic.

Castello Di Burgos

The Castillo Di Burgos, also known as Goceano Castle, was so compelling I made a point to plan to stop there and explore the town and ruins on my way back across the island a week later.

There is a minimal fee to explore the ruins and since I had the castle completely to myself on a lazy afternoon I ate lunch and lost myself in the sense of history and sweeping views.

A Brief History of Castillo Di Burgos

The Medieval history of this castle is as dramatic as the castle appears. Tragically William of Cagliari, a ruler of the region once left his wife here while at war with his rival Constantine of Torres. He believed a small garrison would be sufficient because the castle was considered impenetrable but his nemesis managed to take the castle despite its formidable defenses and “ravaged” William’s wife, afterward taking her away to imprison her at another fortress, where she later died. Local ghost stories contend that William’s spirit roams the ruins at night, still begging for his wife’s forgiveness.

Forty years later, the castle was the backdrop to another tragedy. It was here that Barisone of Torres was murdered by assassins and later his widow, Adelasia, retired to this castle where she lived out the rest of her days. Its said that her ghost haunts the grounds on the full moon.

The castle saw many battles as power struggles played out on the island but at some point, it fell into the hands of a posse of bandits led by Bartolo Manno and they utilized the stronghold to prey on the surrounding region. Later it was retaken by lords of the land and the castle was again the backdrop as power violently changed hands over the centuries, even resisting a siege that lasted almost a year. By the 1500s however, it had fallen into disuse and the centuries after saw it crumble into the enchanting ruin it is today.

Driving on, the roadway dropped suddenly from the highlands to the coast and each turn was paired with a breathtaking vista, as what was left of the sun’s rays illuminated cliffside towns.