Quinta da Regaleira is at the top of the list of things to see in Sintra. It is one of the most diverting of Sintra’s famous historic chateaus, primarily because the gardens of Quinta da Regaleira are, in a word, enchanting.

In the grounds of Quinta da Regaleira, we are reminded not to take ourselves too seriously, we recollect the taste of childish adventures, as we comb ruins and wooded paths between ferns and palms through goblin caves and over narrow stone fairy bridges while lush green branches droop low, flower-laden. Light and dark play a lyrical duet for us as sunlight dapples sculpture and palm leaves striate cobbled paths.

Down the rabbit hole, we go, quite literally, leaving the ordinary behind, navigating a surprising world where the dull concept of practicality hasn’t been allowed to work its corruption. Spiraling wells wind their way farther and farther into the ground leaving the last glimpses of daylight behind. Deep below, in the shadows, mysterious subterranean paths cut through stone. Tunnels wind and connect and eventually open majestically behind a waterfall. From here you have to brave a precarious exit, stepping from stone to stone over flowing water to finally emerge back into the sun.

Parapets jut from ledges and intricately carved terraces are woven into a wildish landscape, as though the architecture grew here over time rather than being built.

There is a philosophy behind everything that is made, and the philosophy of design at Quinta da Regaleira works its magic (as all great art does) upon the subconscious.

Here our mind finds itself stretching to flex long unused wings. There’s a sweet almost nostalgic ache as some primal part of ourselves wakes and blinks because it’s been too long. The child-self lives forever in the soul, but it’s not frequent enough that we remember it.

I recommend going early, the gardens are most incredible when there aren’t many people on the paths when there’s still a bit of morning mist and the light is soft. Exploring when its quiet ads so much more mystery to all of the whimsical nooks and hideaways there are to discover. Later, toward noon you definitely won’t have the caves and towers, wells and waterfalls to yourself.